https://www.turnitonfromanywhere.com

 

CONTROL YOUR HEATING FROM ANYWHERE WITHOUT INTERNET OR WIFI

Ideal for controlling heat in a holiday home which doesn't have wifi.

 

There are many devices available for controlling your central heating. They mostly depend on having WiFi and complicated apps. They are also very expensive, hundreds of $, € or £.

Google Nest Thermostat    $239

Hive Active Heating Kit      €199

Many of them require that you pay an annual fee for the use of their app. To be fair, some of them are very sophisticated and you can control the temperature you want your home to be at and some have a "learning" function.

However, for the vast majority of users they are far too complex and far more complicated than they need to be.

If you are one of the vast majority who just wants to make a simple unanswered and FREE call to turn on your Heating or Air Conditioning then our Module will do it easily and without any need for Wifi, complicated apps or recurring charges.

We can only give you a very rough idea of how to use our Module to control your Central Heating (CH) or Hot Water (HW) or (AC) because of the variety of such systems but it is mostly very straightforward and your electrician should be able to do it in well under and hour.

WARNING: If you connect electrical equipment to the RF socket which is controlled by our Module make sure it is inspected and certified by a qualified Electrician. It may be illegal to do electrical work yourself if you are unqualified and may invalidate property or life insurance in the event of an accident or damage. Be careful, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!!!

JUST BECAUSE SOMETHING WORKS, DOESN'T MEAN IT'SAFE!!!

CONTROL VIA THE CENTRAL HEATING PROGRAMMER (MOSTLY UK & EUROPE)

There are useful Central Heating diagrams on this very informative site which pertain mostly to the UK and Europe.

Most heating systems work on 220v/110v (UK and Europe) but some control with 24V AC (USA). What we are describing below is for 220V systems and involves controlling the HW and CH via the Programmer terminals. You can also control your HW and CH and AC via the THERMOSTAT as well which we will mention below.

Your existing Programmer basically makes a terminal or terminals become LIVE. Our Module can do the same thing.

If you want to try to control the heating yourself and have an electrician or other suitably qualified person sign off on the work for you, you need to do the following:

Firstly turn off the power to the central heating at the fused spur to the Programmer. Remove the fuse to be extra safe.

Remove the existing Programmer from the Universal Back Plate. It looks something like this if you have a dual programmer controlling Central Heating (CH) and Hot Water (HW). You will usually see the following terminals: N, L, 1, 2, 3, 4.

https://www.turnitonfromanywhere.comhttps://www.turnitonfromanywhere.com

 

On the back of the Programmer you will usually see a diagram showing how the connections are made. The diagram above is for a dual Programmer which is for Central Heating (CH) and Hot Water (HW). What the Programmer does is connect a Live or line voltage to terminal 3 for Hot Water ON and connects terminal 4 to Live or line voltage to terminal 4 for Central Heating ON.

Study the various diagrams in the link to the https://www.flameport.com/electric/central_heating/index.cs4 site mentioned above to see how your system operates.

You may have just a single channel Programmer. The diagram you have on your Programmer may look something like this:

https://www.turnitonfromanywhere.com

To turn the heat on for this boiler all you have to do is make terminal 4 live.

So to control these boilers all we need to do is usually make terminal 3 or 4  or 3 and 4 live. To do that we need to attach a double plug socket to the 3 Amp Fused Spur. We then insert our RF plug or plugs into this socket. We can now control our RF socket in the usual way by sending it signals from our Module turning it ON or OFF. We then simply insert a plug with 3 core cable into our RF plug. So now when our module sends a signal to the RF plug the cable attached to the plug becomes Live.

We simply connect this cable's live wire only to either terminal 3 or 4 depending on whether we want o control the CH or HW. You don't need to use the neutral wire.To be able to control both you will of course need two RF sockets. You can control the sockets in any of the 3 Configurations but if you use Configuration No.1 you will need to purchase two Modules if you want to control BOTH CH and HW. Most people just want to control the CH remotely so one Modue is sufficient. If you have a Combi Boiler only one of our Modules is needed.Please see the diagrams in the web site mentioned earlier.

It sounds more complicated than it is. Hopefully this picture will make it more clear. This is for an S-Plan setup.

htts://www.turnitonfromanywhere.com

If you have a Y-Plan Central Heating setup you will not be able to control the Hot Water (HW) so easily. This is because this system requires a Live to terminal 1 when it is OFF. You can get over this by adding a relay to your circuit which will switch the Live from terminal 1 to terminal 2 when there is a call for HW. Ask your Electrician or Heating Engineer.

Some people like to operate the Programmer in parallel with our Module. Be aware that if you do that and if either terminal 3 or 4 is made Live by the Programmer then if you pull either of the plugs from the RF socket that the Live prong of the plug could be Live and if anybody touched it they would be electrocuted! Some people Super Glue the plugs in place to avoid this and also clearly label the plugs as being potentially Live.

It's probably safer to remove the Programmer and cover the electrical connections to the terminals with a suitable enclosure. Your Electrician or Heating Engineer will advise.

 

CONTROL VIA THE THERMOSTAT (USA MOSTLY, BUT CAN ALSO BE USED IN UK AND EUROPE)

CH and HW and AC are mostly controlled in the US using 24V AC. There are many variations of systems available but they mostly involve connecting a 24V AC Live wire to other wires to activate the CH, HW or AC. These systems can be controlled quite easily by inserting 110V AC relays (coil voltage) in series with the wires going to the CH, HW and AC. (In Europe and UK you would of course use 220V AC coils for your relays).

These relays are then energised by a plug coming from the RF plug which is in turn controlled by our Module.

Again, it's very important to stress that all electrical work should be certified or signed off by a qualified Electrician or Heating Engineer.

Check out this video which contains very useful information about controlling your heating with a NEST or HIVE. It explains a lot of what was talked about above.

 

 

https://www.thesitewizard.com/                                            THIS SITE DOES NOT COLLECT COOKIES